[心得] Not your Blue Fantasy, Bleu de Chanel
http://morissett.pixnet.net/blog/post/27072789
網誌版
根據Chanel的新聞稿,指出Bleu de Chanel (下稱Bleu)是「前所未有大製作」,這句
話絕對是事實,自今年初,香水圈已謠傳Martin Scorsese即將開拍Chanel的新香水廣告
,不過這倒也還好,畢竟Chanel聲勢浩大的香水廣告已經不是第一次,光No.5就已經請過
Nicole Kidman (directed by Baz Lurhman)以及 Audrey Tautou (directed by
Jean-Pierre Jenet)擔綱了。後來消息指出,Scorsese是為Chanel全新的男香拍攝廣告,
引起香圈騷動,畢竟Chanel上次的新男士系列已經是「1999年」的Allure Homme了。
結果最後作品是號稱「香奈兒第一款男士木質芳香調香水」的Bleu. Ugh, where should
I start?
How about, no, it's NOT Chanel's first woody fragrance. Frankly, Bleu is not
that woody to categorize as woody anyway.
但這支絕對是Chanel第一支最像市面上運動香水的Chanel香水,這句話並不是恭維。
Bleu,就說這是所有主流運動男香的公式產品吧,非常乖巧的代表作。主流運動男香公式
如何構成?首先,要聞起來柑橘調,最好有一點spicy,表現出活力;再來是暖調組成的
中味,所謂的woody在這邊可以發現,但顯然不是重點;最後一定要有洗完衣服很乾淨的
感覺,像是痱子粉啦洗衣精啦之類的乾淨結尾。簡而言之去市面上找任何香水顏色偏藍,
海報是半裸男模(最好場景還在海邊、海上、海下,跟海有關就對了),最好瓶子上面還
寫有sport的香水,you get a Bleu but cheaper。
從香水層面來觀察嗅聞,這就是Chanel的最新產品。一個如此知名的香水品牌,居然隨波
逐流推出這樣這樣的作品,從作品本身是無法找出理由的。畢竟,Jacques Polge這位備
受景仰的調香師,於Chanel已經在位32年,調製過多款既兼具concept與boxoffice的香水
,竟做出如AXE的作品,只能說令人瞠目結舌。直到看過最近的Jacques Polge專訪……一
切就豁然開朗了。
九月初,就在Chanel正在如火如荼宣傳著Bleu之時,Jacques Polge接受一雜誌的專訪,
僅僅九個問題,專訪內容卻主要圍繞在Polge在1990年推出的Egoïste,而不是Bleu。專
訪不僅僅將Egoïste的創作過程淋漓盡致地描述,以及Polge的靈感來源(是Chanel過去
的一支女香:Bois des Iles),取名的依據等等。但畢竟Bleu還在檔期中,專訪中一個
問題仍然是留給Bleu,翻譯如下:
Q. What is the inspiration behind Bleu, your new men's fragrance, which has
just hit stores?
問:那麼,Bleu背後的靈感是什麼呢?
Bleu is the opposite of Egoïste. Egoïste was inspired by a woman's
fragrance, whereas there is nothing feminine about Bleu. I wanted to do
something very direct. You know, men's fragrances are still very linked with
shaving. When I find myself in planes, at some point I always see those
business men coming from the bathroom smelling of aftershave. So Bleu is
spicy, woody, and dry. There is no fantasy.
Bleu和Egoïste是很不同的。Egoïste自Chanel過去的女香找尋靈感,但是Bleu是一點也
沒有女香的蹤跡。我想要做一支非常直截了當的作品。現在的男香仍然與刮鬍(產品)有
非常深厚的關係。當我搭飛機的時候,我總是聞到商人自盥洗室離開時身上帶有的鬍後水
味。Bleu也是這樣,辛味、木質、乾燥。[Bleu背後]沒什麼幻想啦。
所以Bleu的靈感來自鬍後水。可以這樣開誠布公批評自己的鬍後水香水,我非常敬佩
Jacques Polge。
接著是幫Jacques Polge解危。幾乎所有香評網站都提到了一個共通點,「Chanel畢竟是
主流香水品牌,Chanel不能自外」,簡而言之,畢竟現在香水主流市場已經不再只有香水
,有更多的香水族群不再關心香水本身,他們關心香水是否hip,他們關心香水是否是新
品,他們關心香水是否易於讓旁人接受。而Polge指出主要的香水市場,也就是美國,已
經足以影響整個香水產業,而導致被列為「怪味」的香材,不被青睞。當然,身為洗衣精
大宗的那種白麝香就成為重點。其實大家也很清楚,這支香水儼然就是要搶AXE客群的生
意。Bleu is a better AXE, only way too expensive.
以下這支廣告,我認為最後那個先生手上拿著Bleu噴,也是非常適合。
(這裡插入了一支AXE廣告)
(我真的有Click by AXE,四年前在漢堡買的,味道有像Bleu的平板版,我買這支還得到
Lukas Podolski的運動T-shirt一件。兩罐Click的組合包,好像是19歐的樣子。)
Reference
Bleu de Chanel - new masculine fragrance review, 1000 Fragrances
Stéphane Gaboué, Q&A with Legendary Chanel Perfumer Jacques Polge, Hint
Fashion Magazine, Sep. 2, 2010
(請對Jacques Polge有興趣的朋友們,務必看看這篇訪問)http://0rz.tw/cgtSx
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