名廚吃四方安東尼波登上次來台灣對台灣的感想
看到了好多不知道的食物名稱，什麼是hau-chi fried tofu阿？好吃炸豆腐？好奇炸豆腐
？臭豆腐？鼎泰豐真的外國人覺得這麼棒阿！Tony還真愛喝酒 :)
Within moments of landing in Taipei I was soaking with the Discovery Taiwan
office staff in a hot sulfur spring in the mountains--interspersed with bouts
of savage drinking and a mammoth traditional banquet. The next day to well
known restaurant A Mei for:Taiwan blackfish roe, oilfish roe, prawn cooked on
stone, 3 sauce dragon fish, pickled oyster, pickled shell mollusk, crab
sticky rice (good!), hau-chi fried tofu, passion fruit prawn salad, steamed
lucky fish pineapple, sweet wine-pickled egg, an amazing Hakka style slow
cooked pork (the best of the lot), mountain vegetable, coconut sesame prawn
soup (the prawns still kicking when dunked into the soup), steamed sponge
gourd, steamed clam with chinese herb and hou-chi pig liver (delightful).
Then to the night market at Kee Lung (maybe the best of its type I've seen)
for pig's trotter soup and various who knows what snacks...noodle/tripe soup
in Shi Meng district...and oh God please forgive me...karaoke and vodka and I
hope no tape exists of me singing Radiohead's CREEP while horizontal. Not a
pretty picture--and about as good to listen to as a civet cat being fed into
a lawnmower..
The revelation, the high point, the apex of all civilization's cumulative
struggle was the incredible Ding Tai Fung house of dumplings. Perfect,
sublime, every one made to order, a la minute--each a perfect 18-folded
cushion of juicy, boiling hot, scalding goodness. The crab dumpling as good
as any single dish ever imagined in ANY 3 star Michelin. The dough rolled,
stuffed and steamed to ORDER--each dumpling dotted with intensely flavored
jellied aspic--so that it melts and steams into the filling yet retains its
structural integrity without leaking. A whole new world of dumplings for me.
Followed many many of the crab with steamed pork dumplings, shrimp and pork
shao-mai, pork and glutinous rice shao-mai, green crescent shaped pork and
veg dumplings, pickled cabbage, seaweed salad--and a simple, perfectly clear
steamed chicken soup that would make any chef proud. Truly wonderful. And
mann..they know how to party here. In fact--they insist on it. The most
maddening thing about the three cities I've been so far is that there is SO
MUCH good stuff. You could spend months in Taipei alone, eating around and
barely scratch the surface. Fortunately, the show is doing really really well
over here. Hasselhoff in Germany kinda big--so I'm considering a whole
alternate career now--making food TV for Asian audiences, bouncing around
this part of the world even more than I've been. The future is here. No doubt
about it. And it tastes real real good Next? I've got serious plans for a
Tiger meat pie at Harry's Cafe de Wheels in Sydney. Been too long.
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